Yesterday evening we went to Aroon Rai (review: http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g293917-d1129357-Reviews-Aroon_Rai_Restaurant-Chiang_Mai.html)
The building was set up like a workers’ canteen, with plain tables and chairs and plastic tablecloths. This was good simple Northern Thai food. We ordered spring rolls, salt and garlic squid and deep fried, battered prawns to start. This was followed by (or at least in our heads it was “followed”) Khao Soi (crispy fried and curried egg noodles), pork and ginger curry and red curried pork.
The dishes arrived in a fairly random order, as always in Thailand. The noodles and ginger pork were nice but not amazing. The red curry was very good and pretty hot – not Thai hot but not the bland Phareng hot either. (More on that word later!)
Afterwards, we went to the Horn Bar at Chiang Mai’s Mandarin Oriental (also known as the Dhara Dhevi) for drinks.
http://www.mandarinoriental.com/chiangmai/
The hotel itself was difficult to find and looked eerily like a temple or a Thai tomb, which seemed almost appropriate as it was as dead as a tomb. We had Singapore Slings, which I belatedly remembered that I don’t like because I cannot stand the taste of cherry brandy, and a big, fat G&T. The bar was lovely and the best of the snacks on offer were the spicy cashews with deep fried lime leaves and chilli.
We left the Mandarin nursing a bill which, for three drinks, was 50% larger than the three meals at Aroon Rai.
I feel no real need to rush back, although I will go to the equivalent in Bangkok to see whether they are all this dull.
Aroon Rai and the Mandarin Oriental
10 JanThe Elephant Camp – Monday, 7 January
10 JanMalcolm dragged me to the Elephant Camp, where his neighbour Carol volunteers. We had to get there in time for the 11:00 am Elephant show, which meant that I had to get my lazy (tired, I’d like to think!) tail out of bed in time to leave at 9:30. Somehow, I managed to do this and despite my friend Malcolm’s driving, managed to get to the MaeTaeng Elephant Camp alive.
After downing a couple of Thai-style iced coffees, (not G&Ts, alas!), I attended the Elephant show.
I did not expect to enjoy the elephants – big heavy creatures that could crush me with a single footstep – but encouraged by a colleague and Malcolm’s insistence, I went. At the end of the trip, I rode on one, sponsored and bought a painting of another – I was hooked!
Elephant trunks, I discovered, have over 100,000 muscles, which is why they can paint pictures and sign their names.
Furthermore, an elephant’s age can be accurately calculated by multiplying the measurement of their teeth across, in both directions and multiplying by a factor. Not a chance of me putting my hand in their mouths to measure though!
Pregnancy (or gestation for an elephant) lasts almost two years (22 months to be precise) and they nurse their young for almost three years.
Elephants eat fruit, skin and all.
Oh, and just so you know, riding on them is not at all smooth and iced coffee before a trip threatens to return from whence it came!
Thai cooking master class – Sunday 6 December 2013
10 JanWhen I arrived back at the house, I found Noom ready with all the ingredients laid out, to make 5 dishes: Red prawn curry, green chicken curry, Tom Kha Gai (chicken and coconut soup), Tom Yum (hot and sour soup) and Som Tam (green papaya salad.
We first started with the red curry paste for the prawn curry.
Although we had a lot of fun pounding the ingredients together and cooking, I would definitely recommend a relatively large mortar and pestle as the best way of keeping preparation time to a minimum and the ingredients inside the bowl! And by the way – it is quite possible to do this without the cleavage.
Below, I include the recipe for the red curry prawns:
Noom’s Red Curry Prawns
Ingredients:
Curry paste:
Dried long chillies – soaked, with the stems taken off – about 10 but use more or less, depending on how hot you like your curry
Garlic cloves – 3
Lemongrass – 1 stalk, with the hard outer stalk removed and cut up
Galangal – 2-3 slices about 2 mm thick and 2.5cm across
Onion – 1 small
Shrimp paste – 1 heaped teaspoon (almost a quenelle)
Curry:
Cooking oil – 2-3 tablespoons
Thick Thai coconut milk – 1 to 1.5 cups
Palm sugar – 1 good teaspoon
Fish sauce – a couple good dashes, according to your taste
Salt
Lime juice – of between 2 to 3 limes
Thai basil (a small handful) and lime leaves (3-4) to garnish
Method:
Curry Paste
Crush the onion, galangal, garlic and lemongrass in a mortar and pestle.
(OK – you can cheat and use a blender, but the effect is not quite the same)
When these are crushed to a fair extent, add the soaked dried chillies.
Keep pounding, using the weight of the pestle, until this is almost a paste.
Add the shrimp paste (I was surprised at how much we used) and continue crushing until you have a smooth paste.
Making the curry:
Put some oil (2 – 3 tablespoons) into a frying pan, and heat at a fairly high heat.
When the oil has started heating (NOT SMOKING), add the paste and “cook out” – be careful not to burn. When the paste has started to change colour a bit to a deeper red, add some coconut milk, continue to cook. Add the rest of the coconut milk and bring to the boil.
Add the raw prawns and lime leaves at this stage. When these have begun to change colour, add the fish sauce and salt, palm sugar. Add these one at a time so that you can see the effect of each one and the rounded “mouth-full” effect of having them all. Finish with a little lime juice.
You should have all the sensations nicely rounded: hot, salt, sour and sweet.
Finish with Thai basil (also called holy basil or sweet basil).
Notes:
1.) You could pre-season the prawns with a little soy, turmeric and ginger, and partially cook by flash frying them. This is a slightly fussy step but will add additional flavour.
2.) David Thompson in his amazing book, Thai Food, (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Thai-Food-David-Thompson/dp/1862055149) suggests the following spices as well: white peppercorns, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, star anise and a little grated nutmeg. You would need to toast and crush these. I have made and enjoyed the curry both ways – perhaps start off using the simple method and add additional ingredients as you become comfortable with the process.
3.) This could be made with chicken. In this case, I would definitely either season and flash fry before adding; or add the chicken in the middle of cooking out the paste. As this will need to cook for a longer time, you may wish to add stock, so the curry does not become too thick.
4.) If making with duck, it would make sense to either season and roast or boil the duck in a master stock (more on this later) beforehand; de-bone and shred the meat before adding to the red curry.
And here is the recipe for the Tom Kha Gai
Dtom Kha Ghai
Ingredients:
Chicken Breasts (cut up or shredded): 2-3
Shallots – 2 small
Lemongrass – 1 stalk, with the hard outer layer removed – cut up
Lime leaves – 2 to 3
Gallangal – 2 slices about 2 mm thick and 2.5cm across
Mushrooms – 6 to 8, depending on size; quartered
Fish Sauce (Nahm Pla) – to taste
Shrimp paste
Palm sugar – 1 teaspoon
Red chilli, sliced on the diagonal – 1 to 2
Garnish
Thai basil (a small handful)
Red chilli oil (Oil of Nham Prik Phao)
Method:
Simmer Onion, lemongrass, lime leaves and galangal in boiling water or stock.
Add chicken and shrimp paste and continue simmering until the chicken is partially cooked.
Add coconut milk to mixture and continue to simmer until chicken almost completely cooked.
If using shrimps, add them to the simmering stock now.
Add fish sauce, palm sugar and salt to taste.
Finish with Thai / Holy Basil and the oil of Nham Prik Phao.
After the meal, we went outside and sent a few paper lanterns to the moon.
The Walking Street – Sunday 6 January
9 JanOn Sunday, I visited the walking street – a street market which sells a variety of items –street food snacks, t-shirts, handbags, souvenirs… basically any touristy rubbish you might wish to buy, or food you may wish to eat.
Oddly, there are a couple of Buddhist temples dotted around the street – should you get tired, you can pray for escape from the evil gods of capitalism.
Some of the items that I found interesting were:
the recycled coke and beer cans which had been made into tuk tuks or motorcycles:
the eggs being cooked on a slow barbecue in banana boats:
the roast corn / sweet potatoes being lathered in a weirdly orange coloured butter and coated (sprinkled is just not the right word!) in salt:
and the fruit set out for immediate smoothies:
Following the trip to the street, I rushed home to meet Noom, the chef from the Spirit House, ready and waiting to cook
Chiang Mai – Saturday 5 January 2013
9 JanHaving finally propped my eyes open at 2pm, I was introduced to the terrible twosome, Bit and Bot. These are the sons of Khun Jar, who manages the house that I am staying at.
The twins Bit and Bot played as kids used to – their favourite game being to swirl straw hats on broom sticks. They either love each other or hate each other in the way that twins do.
Later that evening, I went for dinner to the “Spirit House”.
http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g293917-d1494643-Reviews-The_Spirit_House_Restaurant_Bar-Chiang_Mai.html
Steve the owner is a great guy and a cool host who explains and describes each dish in great detail to his guests.
While I enjoyed the food there and have no doubt that Steve and his chefs are very good, I felt that the dishes that I had were made for foreign palates and therefore not as spicy as I would have liked. Therefore, I arranged with the Thai chef, Noom, to have a cooking class the next day, Sunday.
The journey begins – Thursday 3 January
9 JanHaving left London at 10:05 GMT on the upstairs floor of the flying bar (aka Quantas 3502), I arrive in Bangkok 11 hours later.
Unfortunately the stopover in Bangkok airport (scheduled to be 5 hours) ends up being 6 hours.
Despite the great snacks in the waiting lounge (sticky rice cooked in banana leaves; banana, taro (dasheen) and pumpkin cooked in butter – yep, slightly weird but tasty, see below) this is an inauspicious start to my travels.
I finally arrive at ChiangMai at 11:00 pm (Thai time), 18 hours after I started – excited but exhausted.
























